Harris Tweed responds to PETA’s calls to switch wool for hemp

PETA’s vice president of corporate projects, Yvonne Taylor, said that if Harris Tweed hopes to survive another 200 years, it must “move with the times” by switching to “kind plant wool that no sheep has to suffer for”. 

Ms Taylor has urged the brand to “blaze a trail of compassion” and future-proof its business by embracing innovative plant wools like hemp, flax, and soya. 

PETA has also claimed that sheep production is harmful for the environment.

“The Outer Hebrides, where Harris Tweed is made, is experiencing rising sea levels, increased flooding, and coastal erosion driven by climate change. Rearing sheep also generates massive amounts of faecal waste and contributes to soil erosion and habitat destruction.  

“The Made-By Environmental Benchmark for Fibres ranks sheep’s wool as a ‘Class E’ fibre – the most severe category – based on its greenhouse gas emissions, toxicity to humans, eco-toxicity, and use of energy, land, and water. In contrast, it gives hemp its highest ‘Class A’ ranking,” Ms Taylor added. 

No plans for rebranding

Calum lain Maciver, chief executive of the Harris Tweed Authority, explained that that company is unique, as it is defined and protected by an Act of Parliament: the Harris Tweed Act 1993. Under this statute, Harris Tweed must be made from 100% pure virgin wool, dyed and spun in the Outer Hebrides, and woven at the homes of islanders before being finished in mills on the islands.  

“This statutory definition safeguards the authenticity of the cloth, ensures continuity of quality, and enshrines its inseparable link with the Hebrides, their people, and their way of life. 

“Given existing statute that Harris Tweed must be made from 100% pure virgin wool, a move to hemp is not something that the Harris Tweed Authority is considering,” Mr Maciver added.  

Harris Tweed is also protected by its own registered certification mark, the Orb device with accompanying script. The Orb mark is only applied to the cloth after inspection and approval, guaranteeing that every length of Harris Tweed has been produced in accordance with the legal definition. 

Unauthorised use, imitation, or alteration of the Orb certification mark is not permitted, the company warns. 

In response to PETA’s ‘Harris Weed’ rebranding idea, Mr Maciver said that the campaigner has engaged in unauthorised use and alteration of the Orb device. 

“Given this unauthorised use and alteration, I would ask that you immediately remove the adulterated mark from your website, from all other communications and immediately remove the WeTranfer link to the image from your website,” he wrote in a letter to Yvonne Taylor. 

‘Shearing is a routine, humane procedure carried out by trained professionals’

Mr Maciver added that Harris Tweed is “more than a fabric”. “It is a living craft that is a key component of the social and economic fabric of the islands. The industry sustains skilled weavers, mill workers, and their families in some of Scotland’s most remote communities. 

“For generations, it has offered skilled employment that is rooted in tradition yet remains modern and globally relevant. Harris Tweed reinforces the cultural identity of the Outer Hebrides, where the craft is bound up with the Gaelic language, history, and the unique landscapes of the islands.” 

He explained that in the UK, sheep typically grow between one and three kilograms of wool each year. This wool must be removed for the animal’s wellbeing; if left unshorn, the fleece can cause discomfort, impaired mobility and increase the risk of disease. 

“Shearing is a routine, humane procedure carried out by trained professionals, many of whom come from generations of sheep farmers. They understand and prioritise animal welfare. The process itself is quick and painless and is essential to maintaining the health and comfort of the sheep,” Mr Maciver concluded. 

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